The simulated screeching of the Stukas over Warsaw almost has you ducking
for cover. The thump of marching jackboots portends terror. The
melancholy piano of Chopin tugs at Polish heartstrings.
In the Museum of the Warsaw Rising, the sound effects are powerful, the visuals
compelling, the tragedy forcefully conveyed. The story of the
Polish capital's suicidal rebellion in 1944 against the Nazi
occupation is vividly told through interactive, multi-media installations
that play on the emotions as much as they engage the intellect.
Critics complain that it treats the past like
a Disneyland theme park and avoids important and troubling questions.
But it is the first such modern museum in Poland, devoted to
the 63-day insurrection in August and September 1944 that left
200,000 dead and incurred a terrible revenge when the Nazis methodically
razed Warsaw.
The museum is the first to reconstruct the
events of a famous, but neglected, chapter in the history of
the second world war. And it is a box-office sensation.
On a working day last week there were long
queues to pay the £2 entrance fee. The large exhibition halls
were crowded with children, teenagers, nuns, priests and pensioners.
In its five-year life, the museum has attracted
1.5 million visitors, 10 times the attendance rate of other Warsaw
museums. "We have a sad and fascinating history. And under the communists, we could hardly
talk about much of it," says Piotr Sliwowski, the museum director. "But people are now hungry for their own history. The desire to recover our history
has just been waiting for the right time to explode."
That time might be now, and not only in Poland,
but across the countries of central Europe, where national memories
have long been suppressed and where the use and abuse of history
have been a barometer of the political climate.
The current political weather is unusually
clement. The post-communist 1990s were too hard and chaotic to
focus on past tragedies. But now with a bit of money to spare,
the history projects are multiplying. In Poland alone there are
umpteen new public extravaganzas being planned.
A museum on 1,000 years of Polish Jews is
to open in Warsaw in 2012. A treatment of Stalin's massacre of
the Polish elite in the forest at Katyn in 1940 by the great
Polish director Andrzej Wajda has been the film of the year.
Wajda is now planning a new museum on the communist era. There
are grandiose schemes for a new museum of national history, another
devoted to the Polish military, another in Gdansk dedicated to
the second world war.
Behind the museum fever lurks a determination
to restore the national memories of countries from Hungary to
the Baltic states, and a campaign taking issue with western Europe
aimed at setting history's record straight.
In the history wars of 2009, the key date
is 1945. Its meaning is hotly contested. In the dominant western
narrative, the good guys won and the bad guys lost. Churchill,
Roosevelt and Stalin teamed up to defeat Hitler. Europe was liberated
from fascism and Stalin's Red Army played a key role.
But when the Russians, British and French
mark VE Day, their celebrations grate on the Poles, Lithuanians,
Estonians, Latvians and Czechs. For them the holiday is as much
a day of mourning, lamenting their loss of independence, their
occupation by the Russians, and the onset of more than four decades
of communist dictatorship.
"For us, Stalin was an aggressor
and a criminal. He created the country of gulags. He was absolutely
comparable to Hitler," Adam Michnik, the liberal Polish newspaper editor and leading former dissident,
wrote recently.
This is a view that scandalises many in the
west, and is playing into British politics because of the controversy
surrounding David Cameron's alliance in Europe with rightwing
Poles and Latvians.
Michal Kamínski, the rightwing Polish politician
who leads the new Tory-dominated caucus in the European parliament,
has become embroiled in rows over his involvement in 2001 in
a campaign opposing apology for a Polish village massacre of
Jews during the war. For Fatherland and Freedom, the Latvian
party allied with the conservatives in the grouping, is a nationalist
party that commemorates Latvia's Waffen-SS legions allied with
the Nazis, some of whom collaborated in the mass murder of Baltic
Jews in the 1940s.
The foreign secretary, David Miliband, whose
family roots are of Polish Jewish origin, has led the attacks
on Cameron and his allies, perhaps unwittingly thrusting the
debate over the second world war in eastern Europe into the early
stages of a British election campaign.
"The basic problem for the east
Europeans is that the west and the Russians have a fundamentally
similar view. The war ended in 1945. It was zero hour. And then
things got better. The east Europeans can't see it that way," said Timothy Snyder, a Yale University historian who is running a Vienna project
seeking to reconcile opposing perspectives on European history.
The utterly different experiences of the second world war and
the cold war in eastern and western Europe and the fact that
the western narrative of what happened has tended to prevail
are the source of intense resentment.
But the entry of eight central European countries
into the EU in 2004 has shifted the terms of the debate. When
still outside the EU, the east Europeans were wary of sparking
too much controversy. Now they are inside, they are making their
voices heard.
The Czechs were the first of the former Soviet
bloc countries to hold the EU presidency, this year, and they
exploited their agenda-setting prerogatives to try to balance
the history books.
In April in the European parliament, the Czechs
pushed through a resolution equating the crimes of communism
with those of fascism, calling for 23 August, the date in 1939
of the Hitler-Stalin pact dividing chunks of eastern Europe between
them, to be made the "Europe-wide Day of Remembrance for the victims of all totalitarian and authoritarian
regimes".
In July in Lithuania, MPs from OSCE countries
drove through a similar resolution equating Hitler and Stalin.
The father of both documents was last year's
Prague Declaration pushed by Václav Havel, the former Czech president
and human rights champion, which proclaimed that "Europe will not be united unless it is able to reunite its history, recognise
communism and Nazism as a common legacy. Different valuations
of the communist past may still split Europe into west and east
… There are substantial similarities between Nazism and communism
in terms of horrific and appalling character."
The east European campaign is offensive to
many Jews who view Nazism as incomparably evil because of the
singularity of the Holocaust and the murder of 6 million people
on grounds of race. Ephraim Zuroff, the Israeli Nazi-hunter,
has denounced the campaign as revisionism, "the beginning of a campaign to rewrite the history of the second world war in
a way that will whitewash the villains, dishonour the victims".
Stanislaw Krajewski, a Warsaw mathematics
professor and a Jewish community leader, is more nuanced. "Can you have moral equivalence between Hitler and Stalin? The German occupiers
came here and wanted to kill Jews. The Soviets came and wanted
to build a better society. But they used terror. Their aim was
not to kill. That's the main difference. But the outcome was
not much different. So to say that Stalin was as bad as Hitler
is not a problem."
The debate can degenerate into an invidious
competition over victimhood, over how many millions perished,
over who suffered the most. "Who wants to win that contest?" asks Barbara Kirshenblatt-Gimblett, a Canadian Jew with Polish roots who is
leading the work on the new Polish Jewish museum in Warsaw.
But Snyder, who is also writing a book on
wartime eastern Europe "between Hitler and Stalin", pointed out that "many more people died under the hammer and sickle than the swastika."
He also argued that knowledge of the Holocaust
would be helped, not hindered, by a proper accounting of the
past 60 years.
Sliwowski at the Rising Museum says his parents
sheltered some Jews from the Nazis during the war and he has
no interest in belittling or relativising the Holocaust.
Poland, however, was "enslaved" by
Moscow and he is unabashed about his purpose, lecturing British
and Nato military officers about Poland's wartime past, about
its home army, the biggest non-communist guerrilla movement in
Europe fighting the Nazis. He is on a mission to make up for
lost time.
"History is not boring. It's the
glue holding society together. But the old-fashioned museums
kill history and they are patriotism killers," he says. "We are showing people that we have our own heroes, the Warsaw insurgents from
1944. We are discovering the meaning of the word patriotism again."
guardian.co.uk
|